This
was my introduction to Chinese trains, and the hard-sleeper berth was much more comfortable
than I had thought it might be. In retrospect, that's because the
trains from Hong Kong attract a different sort of clientele, because the
rolling stock on that route is much more luxurious than most Chinese
trains, and because getting tickets was simple and orderly.
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Dim sum from Tim Ho Wan. These
signature pork buns are different than your traditional steamed buns:
they are baked to a crisp finish, with delicious crispy caramelization
on the bottom. So far as signature pork buns go, they blow away David
Chang's Momofuku pork buns.
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Customs
on the train was simple, as you stay in your car and the officials come
to you. The train doesn't leave Guangzhou station until after 6:00,
which means there isn't a lot of Chinese scenery to see before it gets
dark.
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Paddies, mountains, and water dominate.
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The setting sun.
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The scenery whips by in the twilight.
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The
train arrives in Shanghai around 10:00 am. The last hour or so (i.e.,
everything since I woke up) is very urban. I arrived in Shanghai well
rested.
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