Fear and Loathing in Beijing

Fear, paranoia, and suspicion are everywhere in Beijing. X-ray machines in subway stations. Scores of plainclothes policemen in Tiananmen square, which contains numerous official police security stations but no place for people to sit or congregate comfortably. Security officers with fire extinguishers next to the Tiananmen Gate and it's monumental portrait of Mao, in anticipation of Tibetan self-immolators. It's clear the government is worried, fearful of internal dissent from Tibet and Xinjiang, fearful of any organized uprisings against the government for any reason whatsoever—be it lax responses to earthquakes, as in 2008; train crashes as in 2011; or any of the scores of cases of local corruption that occur every year. The government lives in fear of its citizens, and this fear is as palpable as the US fear of terrorism. But unlike the US fears, which manifest themselves mainly when flying, reminders of Beijing's fears are omnipresent.

Making sure no one sets themselves on fire.

Because it would look bad for this to happen before Chairman Mao. In order to minimize the chances of this happening, most of the area is roped off and the throng of people means you have to keep moving.

It's difficult to imagine a less inviting public space than Tiananmen square. No respite from the sun, no place to sit, and plenty of plainclothes minders to keep an eye on you. There's definitely no lounging, dancing, or Tai Chi that goes on here, as it does in most other public spaces in China.

Paul Andreu's nearby National Center for the Performing Arts is just as sterile and non-functional as a public space, but at least people are allowed to gather if they so desire.

At the iconic CCTV building, by Rem Koolhaas, you can't even get near the building as there is strict security and fencing around the perimeter. This is definitely not architectural tourism like Gehhry's Guggenheim Bilbao or Disney Center. China may be the source of great commissions, but it must be disappointing to have an amazing building get built yet not have people fully enjoy it.

The most accessible interesting architecture may be commercial buildings like this shopping mall west of the Forbidden City.

Or in the trendy students' area of Sanlitun. I love Uniqlo and this building was pretty cool, but the inside of the glass-curtain wall was black with streaks of dirty rain pollution.